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counter assualt bear deterrent
Counter Assault Bear Deterrent is the only spray to meet or exceed IGBC recommendations. It has the maximum strength allowed by the EPA and Health Canada, and exceeds Bear Biologist and Wildlife Specialist recommendations for bear spray. The 10.2 oz. unit has a spray time of 9.2 seconds and a spray distance of 32 feet. This is the brand carried by rangers in Glacier and Yellowstone.

Many Glacier Trails Illustrated Map
The Many Glacier Map includes Cracker Lake, Waterton Lakes, Goat Haunt, Belly River and more. The Glacier sectional maps have a scale of 1:50,000, and provide much greater detail such as backcountry campsites, points of interests & stream crossings.

Ptarmigan Tunnel

Trail Features: Outstanding views, Alpine Lake, Historic Ptarmigan Tunnel
Trail Location: Iceberg Lake Trailhead
Roundtrip Length: 10.7 Miles
Total Elevation Gain: 2300 Feet
Avg. Elev Gain / Mile: 430 Feet
Highest Elevation: 7255 Feet
Trail Difficulty Rating: 15.30 (strenuous)
Parking Lot Latitude 48.79958
Parking Lot Longitude -113.67924

Trail Description:

The hike to Ptarmigan Tunnel begins behind the cabins near the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. There's enough parking for roughly 10-15 cars in the lot next to the trailhead. However, given the popularity of the area, it's likely the lot will be full, in which case you'll have to park in front of the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. This will add another two-tenths of a mile walk to reach the trailhead.

Just beyond the Iceberg Lake Trailhead hikers will immediately turn right at a junction to access the short connector trail that leads to the Ptarmigan Trail. This connector trail is a fairly steep climb, gaining roughly 185 feet in only a quarter-of-a-mile. However, once on the Ptarmigan Trail, the gain in elevation is much more moderate.

view from Ptarmigan TrailUpon reaching the Ptarmigan Trail junction, hikers should turn left. A turn to the right will lead you down to the Many Glacier Hotel.

Along the upper reaches of the connector trail, as well as on the early sections of the Ptarmigan Trail, hikers will have commanding views of 8851-foot Mount Grinnell and 8436-foot Swiftcurrent Mountain towards the southwest. The dominating feature towards the west is 9321-foot Mount Wilbur, and lying towards the northwest, in the direction you're heading at this point, is the Ptarmigan Wall.

The Many Glacier area, especially the Ptarmigan Trail area, is located in prime bear habitat. The first mile or so past the connector is a haven for grizzly bears. Nearly every time that I've hiked this trail I've spotted at least one along the hillside. It's extremely important for hikers to make a lot of noise, carry bear spray, and hike in groups in this area. As a result of its location, trails in the Many Glacier area are frequently closed due to bear activity. Thus, it's always a good idea to check with a ranger on the status of a trail before proceeding on any hike in the park.

The first segment of the hike passes through open terrain that offers grand views of the surrounding mountains. However, as you proceed further along, the trail enters a fairly dense section of pine forest, roughly 1.5 miles from the trailhead.

At 2.5 miles hikers will reach a small clearing overlooking Ptarmigan Falls. Unfortunately this is the best view of the falls you'll have, as steep terrain makes it virtually impossible to get a closer look. Moreover, tree cover blocks a full view of the falls from top to bottom.

Just above Ptarmigan Falls is an open and rocky area that has become a popular spot for a snack break or a rest stop.

Ptarmigan LakeShortly after passing the falls you'll cross a footbridge over Ptarmigan Creek. Roughly a tenth-of-a-mile later you'll reach the Iceberg Lake Trail junction, which takes hikers to one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in the park. Turning right and continuing on the Ptarmigan Trail will lead hikers to the Ptarmigan Tunnel.

With most people heading towards Iceberg Lake, this segment of the Ptarmigan Trail won't be nearly as heavily traveled as the first section.

Beyond the junction hikers will begin another fairly steep climb of more than 400 feet over the next six-tenths of a mile. This section also passes through a thick patch of huckleberries. This is another place where you'll need to make a lot of noise in order to avoid a surprise encounter with a bear.

Once this relatively short ascent is completed, the saddle above the Ptarmigan Tunnel will be directly ahead of you. Shortly thereafter you'll emerge from the treeline and views of the Ptarmigan Wall will become even more dramatic. The Ptarmigan Wall, towering more than 1700 feet above the trail at this point, is known as an arête, which is defined as a thin ridge of rock separating two valleys that have been carved by glaciers. In this case, the Ptarmigan Wall separates the Many Glacier valley from the Belly River valley.

Roughly 4.2 miles from the trailhead you'll reach a series of waterfalls and cascades tumbling down Ptarmigan Creek in the valley below the trail. Just beyond this point is Ptarmigan Lake. Although the main trail continues above the shore, there's a short side trail that drops down to the foot of the lake. Bighorn sheep and mountain goats are frequently seen in this area.

From here you can see the final segment of the trail as it climbs two major switchbacks towards the tunnel. Some might find this climb a little daunting. Above the lake the trail gains roughly 500 feet in less than two-thirds of a mile. However, the spectacular views that await you from both sides of the tunnel should provide enough motivation to push you onward.

Ptarmigan Lake basin

Upon arrival at the tunnel's south entrance hikers will have commanding views of Ptarmigan Lake and the glacially sculpted, U-shaped valley between the Ptarmigan Wall and Crowfeet Mountain. Beyond the valley, Mt. Wilbur is the dominating feature.

Ptarmigan TunnelPtarmigan Trail on Crowfeet Mountain

Walking to the other side of the tunnel is like walking into another world. Hikers will have stunning views of Natoas Peak, Crosley Ridge, and the Belly River as it flows into Elizabeth Lake. Walk a little further down the trail, as it hugs the red rock face of Crowfeet Mountain, and you'll be able to see Old Sun Glacier on the slopes of 10,004-foot Mt. Merritt towards the west.

Elizabeth Lake

The 240-foot Ptarmigan Tunnel was originally built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930's for horses and early park tours. Using two opposing steel jackhammers drilling from either side of the tunnel, and a series of dynamite charges, workers broke through the mountain in less than three months. The blasted rock was used to build doorway entrances, also known as adits, on each end of the tunnel, as well as retaining walls alongside the trail. In 1975 the National Park Service added steel doors to both ends of the tunnel, which now remain closed between October 1st and the opening of the trail, usually around the middle of July.

In 1998 a woman lost her life on the north side of Ptarmigan Tunnel in one of the most freakish accidents in Glacier National Park history. The Polson, Montana woman, along with her husband and two companions, rode horseback to the tunnel from Many Glacier. Upon arrival they led their horses through the tunnel to view the scenery on the other side. While standing beside the low stone parapet her horse abruptly jerked and stumbled, and knocked the woman onto the retaining wall. The horse then lost its footing and fell on top of her. Both horse and rider then rolled over the wall before falling hundreds of feet to their deaths.